If you’re a lash technician or lash artist looking to level up your work, one of the most important skills to master is how to get better lash retention. Great lash retention doesn’t just happen by using the best glue or lashes—it’s a combination of precise technique, smart ergonomics, and consistent client prep.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll break down the exact methods taught by lash trainer Cosmina Esanu, focusing on two critical elements: isolation and placement. By the end of this post, you’ll have actionable tips and insider knowledge to improve your lash retention, client satisfaction, and overall results.
Why Lash Retention Matters
Before diving into how to get better lash retention, it’s crucial to understand why retention is so vital. Retention refers to how long lash extensions stay attached to the natural lashes without falling out prematurely. Good lash retention ensures:
- Clients stay happy longer
- Fewer complaints or refill requests
- Your reputation as a skilled lash artist grows
The Retention Equation: Glue, Placement, and Angle
One of the foundational lessons Cosmina teaches in her lash extensions classes is this:
“Perfect retention comes with perfect placement. Perfect placement comes with a perfect angle.”
Understanding this connection is at the heart of learning how to get better lash retention.
Glue Isn’t Everything
Yes, adhesive quality matters. But even the best lash glue won’t save you if your placement or angles are off. Proper bonding depends on how well the extension connects to the natural lash, and that’s where isolation and placement come in.
The Retention Equation: Glue, Placement, and Angle
One of the foundational lessons Cosmina teaches in her lash extensions classes is this:
“Perfect retention comes with perfect placement. Perfect placement comes with a perfect angle.”
Understanding this connection is at the heart of learning how to get better lash retention.
Glue Isn’t Everything
Yes, adhesive quality matters. But even the best lash glue won’t save you if your placement or angles are off. Proper bonding depends on how well the extension connects to the natural lash, and that’s where isolation and placement come in.
The Three Pillars of Lash Retention
If you’re serious about improving your retention, start with mastering these three core concepts:
1. Isolation
Isolation means separating a single natural lash to apply the extension. Without proper isolation, lashes can stick together, creating tension and fall-out. It’s one of the first skills any lash training course emphasizes.
Here’s what Cosmina recommends:
- Always isolate with your non-dominant hand (left for right-handed artists)
- Use curved tweezers if needed to get deeper into the lash line
- Use the second tweezer to help you isolate and stabilize
- Make sure your isolation is straight, not slanted, for a clean open base
Learning how to isolate properly is the first major step in figuring out how to get better lash retention.
2. Placement
Once you’ve isolated the lash, your next move is placement—and it needs to be done with precision. This means applying the extension so it hugs the natural lash from base to tip without tilting, lifting, or sliding.
Tips from Cosmina’s lash extensions classes:
- Your elbow should be supported—either on the lash bed or your leg—for maximum control
- Use your pinky finger to stabilize your hand on the client’s face
- Align the extension exactly with the direction of the natural lash
- Don’t press too hard or let the extension float off the lash line
If you’ve been wondering how to get better lash retention, improving your placement technique is non-negotiable.
3. Angle
Angle is everything. Without the correct angle, even well-placed lashes can pop off.
“Your angle should match the direction your client’s natural lashes are growing.”
That means if your client’s lashes grow straight down, your extension angle must follow that same downward path. If the lashes grow to the side, you must apply your extensions straight and center them, even if the natural lash is veering off. This creates symmetry and structure.
Ergonomics and Technique: How to Position Your Body for Better Retention
One thing often overlooked when learning how to get better lash retention is your body position.
Cosmina emphasizes a strong ergonomic setup to avoid fatigue and mistakes:
- Move your chair instead of twisting your body
- Sit upright with your elbows close to your hips
- Rest your hands using your pinky or forearm for support
- Work from side to side with ease by adjusting your chair, not your spine
Small adjustments like these make a big difference in precision and retention.
Isolation Technique: Step-by-Step
Let’s break down Cosmina’s recommended isolation technique:
- Sit on the left side when working on the right eye, and vice versa
- Use your isolation tweezer to find a single lash
- Use your picking tweezer to help isolate if needed
- Support your pinky on the client’s cheek, forehead, or nose bridge
- Keep the lash isolated straight from the base, not diagonally
- Ensure the lash is fully separated before application
Doing this consistently is a major leap forward in learning how to get better lash retention.
Placement Technique: Step-by-Step
Once isolated, here’s how to place with intention:
- Match the angle of the extension to the direction of the natural lash
- Place the lash firmly, not floating or loose
- Apply in layers: bottom first, then middle, then top
- Always double-check the lash direction with a lash mirror
- After every few lashes, brush and check retention
Cosmina also recommends using a Super Bonder at the end of the set to seal in your work and speed up drying time.
Pro Tips on How to Get Better Lash Retention
Cosmina’s lash trainer classes are filled with gold nuggets of advice. Here are a few of her favorite retention hacks:
1. Use the Right Lash Thickness
Choose the appropriate thickness for the desired effect. For example:
- 0.10 mm for light volume
- 0.07 mm for fuller volume
Choosing the wrong thickness can weigh down the natural lash and cause fall-out.
2. Always Start With Clean, Oil-Free Lashes
Retention starts before the lash even hits the client’s eye. Use a lash cleanser and make sure the natural lashes are dry and oil-free before beginning your set.
3. Double-Check Each Lash
Once your set is complete:
- Use a lash mirror to check direction and spacing
- Brush through lashes gently
- Make sure no lashes are stuck together
- Add a bonder to cure and improve glue hold
These tiny details separate a beginner from a pro when learning how to get better lash retention.
Common Mistakes That Hurt Lash Retention
If your clients are experiencing early lash fall-out, you might be making these errors:
- Poor isolation, causing lashes to stick together
- Incorrect angle, leading to stress on the lash line
- Dirty lashes before application
- Unsupported hands, causing shaky placement
- Ignoring the client’s lash growth direction
Recognizing and correcting these mistakes is a game-changer in your lash career.
Lash Retention and Client Education
Even when you master how to get better lash retention, remember: client aftercare matters too.
Make sure to educate your clients about:
- Avoiding steam, water, or oil for 24 hours
- Not rubbing or pulling their lashes
- Using lash-friendly makeup removers
- Brushing their lashes daily
No matter how flawless your work is, poor aftercare will sabotage retention.
Why Lash Artists Need Ongoing Training
Great lash retention isn’t something you learn once and never revisit. Trends, tools, and techniques are always evolving.
Consider enrolling in ongoing lash extensions classes with a reputable lash trainer like Cosmina Esanu. Not only will you stay ahead of the curve, but you’ll continue to elevate your client results and brand reputation.
Conclusion: Your Retention Game Just Got Stronger
Now you know the secrets behind how to get better lash retention. It’s not just about products—it’s about perfecting your technique, angle, body position, isolation, and placement.
To summarize:
- Perfect isolation leads to better placement
- Better placement leads to optimal retention
- Matching angles is key to lash longevity
- Ergonomics and precision reduce mistakes
- Educating clients preserves your work
Master these, and you’ll be known not just as a lash technician, but a lash artist with a reputation for long-lasting, stunning sets.
Ready to Elevate Your Lash Skills?
If you’re ready to take your skills to the next level, explore hands-on lash training with Cosmina Esanu—renowned lash trainer and founder of Limitlashes™. Whether you’re a beginner or an advanced artist, our lash extensions classes are designed to transform your technique and boost your confidence.
Get in touch with Limitlashes™
- Call Us: (781) 996-4048
- Email Us: [email protected]
- Send DM: Instagram
- YouTube Channel: Lash Tutorials
- Podcast: My Lash Journey
- Free Lash Class: Online Lash MasterClass
